September 1-4, Port Angeles, WA and Olympic National Park (continued)
Monday morning we drove to Neah Bay and hiked to Cape
Flattery which is the most northwestern point of the lower 48 states. We are on the Makah Indian Reservation and
needed to purchase a recreation fee. The
¾ mile trail was very lush and beautiful.
The
moss growing on the tree limbs created some very unusual sites – this limb
looked like it had a face on the end of it.
When
we arrived at the tip of Cape Flattery at the end of the trail the views were
great with rock stacks, sea caves and even a few sea lions.
There were a number of sea caves on either side of the
point. We enjoyed watching the waves
crashing into the caves.
Tatoosh Island just off the end of the point is a sacred
place for the Makah people. Vancouver
Island is just across the Strait of Juan De Fuca.
The Cape Flattery Lighthouse sits on Tatoosh Island.
We next drove to the trailhead for the 4 mile round trip hike
to Shi Shi Beach, which claims to be one of the most unspoiled beaches in the
US. At the beginning of the trail we met
a lady coming back and she told us she saw a couple of whales at the beach – we
hope they are still around by the time we get there. The trail wound through a beautiful rain
forest and was so muddy in some spots we had to use bypass trails. At the end of the trail we had to make our
way down a very steep cliff to the beach.
Once down the cliff the long beach was beautiful with rocks out into the
water on each end.
We hiked to the rocks on the opposite side of the beach and
climbed over an outcropping where we found a nice small cove. There was only one other person on the beach
so it was very isolated. We were looking
through our binoculars from the outcropping and were able to see the two whales
a long way out – we think they were Grey Whales but it was hard to tell. We watched them for a while but couldn’t get
any pictures as they were too far away.
We really enjoyed our trip to Neah Bay, the drive was
beautiful with lots of views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Vancouver
Island. The hikes were great and we
especially enjoyed Cape Flattery.
Tuesday we decided to go see some of the waterfalls the
ranger at the Visitor Center told us about earlier. Our first stop was at Madison Creek Falls
along the Elwha River Entrance to Olympic National Park. We hiked a short easy trail to this beautiful
waterfall on Madison Creek.
Our next stop was Marymere Falls which drops 90 feet into a
small plunge pool. The 1.5 mile round
trip hike to this beautiful waterfall was a little more difficult than the
Madison Creek Falls trail but was well worth the effort.
We ate lunch at the Lake Crescent Lodge and when we told our
waitress we were on our way to Sol Duc Falls she said that when you round the
corner and see the falls they will take your breath away.
After lunch we headed up the Sol Duc River road
and stopped at Salmon Cascades. These
powerful cascades were once a great place to watch salmon swimming upstream to
spawn. But because of over fishing it is
rare to see native fish leaping these cascades today.
We
drove past the Sol Duc Hot Spring Resort to the end of the road where we found
the trail to Sol Duc Falls. The 1.5
mile round trip hike was beautiful and the falls were just as breathtaking as
our waitress told us. These falls are
seen from above stream level and fell in three separate streams. We could see that when the river is higher
there is a fourth channel on the far right side.
Beyond
the bridge in the trees you can see the roof of the Canyon Creek Shelter built
by the CCC. This is a rustic shelter for
hikers that is like the ones we saw on the Appalachian Trail.
On
our way back to the RV Park we stopped at Lake Crescent, a deep, glacially
carved lake – officially the maximum depth is 624 feet but unofficial depth
measurements of more than 1,000 feet have been recorded. The lake is a brilliant azure and
exceptionally clear which is caused by a lack of nitrogen in the water which
inhibits the growth of algae.
We really enjoyed our hikes to all the waterfalls in
beautiful Olympic National Park.
Wednesday we drove to the west side of Olympic National Park
and hiked in the Hoh Rain Forest. The
temperate rain forest valley of the glacier-fed Hoh River receives 12 to 16
feet of rainfall a year, not including the 30 inches of tree drip from fog
condensing in the canopy. We can believe
that as it rained off and on most of the morning. Our first stop was at the Big Sitka Spruce
Tree, one of the largest in the US. It
is over 270 feet high, has a diameter at breast height of over 12 ½ feet and is
between 500 to 550 years old.
This old telephone booth at the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center shows just how wet this area is with its hat of moss.
New trees sprout up on the rotting logs of fallen trees called nurse logs. Here are three in Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock trees in a row on a nurse log.
After lunch in the picnic area, we drove to the coast and stopped a Rialto Beach, also part of Olympic National Park. This is a beautiful beach at the mouth of the Quillayute River.
We had a good breeze so Rex decided to try out one of his kites. Of course, as soon as he got the kite out and in the air the breeze died down!
We enjoyed another great day even though it did rain on
us. We have enjoyed the northern Olympic
Peninsula and Olympic National Park – another gem in our national park system. We are looking forward to seeing more great
beaches as we move down the coast tomorrow - hopefully it won't rain.
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